NB FIRST WARM 48 HOURS: colonies in late winter

Notes taken from BEE-L Digest -- 13 Jan 2010 (#2010-15)

#4 from BH "colonies in winter in Missouri ( was Resumption of egg laying)"

What like to see, if fall prep. successful:

1. bees in bottom box of two deeps or in top box but with a 3 inch band of
honey over the cluster (cluster not right under the top).
2. A large cluster of 8-9 frames (not small cluster of 3-5 frames which indicates hive did not raise enough winter bees so what appeared to a large enough hive likely will not winter now)
3. Cluster in center of the brood box. Not as important with a huge winter cluster.
(If cluster off center and will intervene in early
fall--bees starve when honey is available when off
center and against the side of the brood box inches from honey etc.
4. Plenty of stored honey/syrup (don't like needing to provide feed to prevent starvation.

Over-feed in late fall ... any the frames of honey pulled in spring to open the brood nest used
in spring nucs.
5. Use a spacer in winter an inch and a half which provides an upper air
flow and allows beek to drop a pollen patty, candy slab or fondant on top in
cold weather without breaking the seal between the two hive bodies (do not
break the lower spacer seal).

Some hives need syrup in early February. *if* wait until
late February for the first feeding some strong hives will starve....
feed a gallon of feed and a pollen patty the first time the
bees move to a loose cluster for a 48 hour period in February.

Page 10 of volume 1 number 1 issue of the American Bee journal
January 1861:

"He may be regarded as a master in bee culture , who knows how to winter his
stocks in a healthy condition, with the least loss of bees, the smallest
consumption of stores, and with the combs unsoiled."

I conclude that we need to take a look for the first time... hmmm... early February in Missouri would be about the end of February around here? And, he says feed after the first warm 48 hours? So, wait for the first warm 48 hours?